The places where the fungus is heaviest are just above the normal high water mark where water and suds splash against inside of the outer tub and at the bottom of the tub where there is always water and excess detergent settles to the bottom while the washer is not being used.

MOST users of Smellywasher cleaner are able to remove the fungus odor by simply adding a tablespoon of cleaner to a “hot” setting and allowing the washer to go through it’s cycle. MORE EXTREME CASES NEED TO DO MULTIPLE CLEANINGS UNTIL THE ODOR GOES AWAY. THE SMELL MAY GET WORSE BEFORE IT GETS BETTER as the outer layers of fungus are eaten away and the inner layers are exposed to air.  Below are instructions on how to use Smellywasher Cleaner to remove odor from your washer in extreme cases. It is a good idea to do a “practice” run not using cleaner if unsure about the operation of the unit.

To use Smellywasher Cleaner in a frontload washer. Use 1 tablespoon of cleaner in place of detergent with no clothes in the washer. Put the washer into its hottest setting and allow the washer to agitate momentarily. Push “pause” and allow the washer to soak for long periods of time. Keep in mind the hotter the water the better the cleaner works and THE LONGER THE SOAKING THE BETTER (EVEN OVERNIGHT)! You can also push “start” to reagitate and then “pause” again to resoak.  Redo the procedure using just a tablespoon of Smellywasher Cleaner until the odor is gone. 

With more extreme cases it may be necessary to add hot water.  You are able to add hot water either directly into the tub or if you’re unable to get the door open you can add hot water through the detergent dispenser and it will go directly into the tub.  DO NOT MANUALLY ADD MORE THAN 5 EXTRA GALLONS to any front load washer as it may pop the door open!

1. Select the hottest cycle and add a level capful of Smellywasher Cleaner through the detergent dispenser. 
2. Allow the washer to agitate for 2-3 minutes, stop the washer and allow unit to soak for a long period. Long, overnight soaks work the best.   You are able to soak for as long as desired by pushing “pause”. During any soaking you are able to push start to reagitate for a few moments and stop again to resoak.            
3. After soak restart the unit and allow the washer cycle to finish. 
4. Use the washer normally.  If the odor persists repeat steps 1-3 until the odor is gone.
5. Notes:  If you are able to easily do so - turn up your hot water heater the day prior to cleaning.  Be sure to turn it back down as hot water can easily scald children.  You can liberally soak any accessible areas such as the door seal with a tablespoon of cleaner mixed with hot water and apply with a brush, spray bottle or cloth.  In extreme cases you can add several older (3) towels to cause the water to have a “wave” effect.  Also, the added weight of the towels causes some washers to fill with more water.   

Please don’t get discouraged.  Depending upon the age of the washer and past detergent/fabric softener use it may take multiple cleanings.  Keep using Smellywasher Cleaner a tablespoon at a time.   

To remove odor from towels and clothing AFTER the odor is gone from your washer use 1 tablespoon (2 tablespoons for large loads) of Smellywasher Cleaner in place of detergent in a hot setting. Allow to soak for two hours and then finish the wash cycle. Rewash with detergent in order to remove the dead fungus spores and dry.   Smellywasher cleaner will not bleach your towels but, if washed repeatedly, colored towels will fade.

To stop the mildew odor from returning it is necessary to reduce detergent use. Detergent companies are notorious for advising to use too much detergent. The “rule of thumb” for all detergents and all washers is to use 1/4 of what instructions advise on the box or bottle.  

Fabric softener also causes odor.  It is simply too thick to be properly dispensed in any washer.  We recommend switching to dryer sheets.  Keep in mind dryer sheets can also be overused and coat towels with a siliconized chemical that will retain odor and cause them to be less absorbent.  The chemical can also coat a dryer sensor that detects moisture in clothing on ”automatic” settings in almost all dryers causing long dry times and repeated service attempts.  Long dry times, however, are almost always caused by restricted air flow. 

Smellywasher Cleaner is made from completely natural, citrus-based ingredients but should be kept away from eyes.   If eye contact occurs flush eyes with water for 15 minutes.

Dryer sheets can also be overused. They contain siliconized chemicals that can coat towels and cause them to be less absorbent. The chemicals can also coat a sensor that detects moisture in clothing on “automatic” settings in almost all dryers. This can cause long dry times and also multiple repair attempts.  

There are many opinions that dryer sheets and fabric softeners contain carcinogens.  The FDA claims that shampoos, detergents, deodorants, creams, soaps and other cosmetic products are not absorbed by the skin.  To me that seems unlikely and past mistakes by the FDA would want me to assess my use of many products. 

Some links to more expert opinions on this can be found at

http://www.naturalnews.com/002693.html 

http://www.ghchealth.com/forum/post-325.html

http://shop.sixwise.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=92

Dryer balls are a newer, chemical-free alternative to both softeners and sheets. They soften by lifting and separating the clothing which allows air to pass more easily between items. The balls don’t cause as much noise as one may suspect because of raised nubs which take the force when hitting the side of the dryer drum. They aren’t very popular because they don’t leave the fresh scent of softeners and sheets and don’t completely eliminate static cling. The latter is more noticeable in colder climates. The balls cost around ten dollars for a package of two.

http://www.washing-machine-wizard.com/smelly-washer-solution.html

http://www.findhomeanswers.com/cleaning-laundry/3036-Cleaning-Laundry.html

http://au.answers.yahoo.com/answers2/frontend.php/question?qid=20071220123534AA9xdBf

http://discussions.consumerreports.org/n/pfx/forum.aspx?msg=12.5&nav=messages&webtag=cr-washers

http://staugustine.com/stories/081307/fashion_4737391.shtml

http://www.hometownlife.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20071101/LIFE/711010339

When a drop of water is put on a smooth surface it beads up. It is surface tension that holds that bead and it is the natural state of water.  Just a drop of rinse aid changes the surface tension of a lot of water and makes it flow off objects easier. RINSE AID IS DISPENSED IN THE RINSE CYCLE OF A DISHWASHER. When a glass from a dishwasher that uses rinse aid is filled with water, bubbles rise to the top and fall back down.  It is not detergent that causes those bubbles - it is rinse aid.

PEOPLE ARE MADE OF 75 % WATER! It is not a good idea for us and especially children to drink anything that changes the surface tension of water.

If you’re not satisfied with how your dishwasher dries without using rinse aid you can pop the door ajar (1″) up to 30 minutes after the “dry” cycle.  This is called “flash” drying and provides venting for moist air to escape from the tub. Do not leave the door open all the way as that is an accident waiting to happen.

A few more waterspots may be noticed if no rinse aid is used but one must weigh the practicality of ingesting a chemical against having spotless dishes.

The best way to clean both a plastic and stainless steel tub dishwasher is to set it for a long, hot cycle such as “pots & pans” or “baked on goods”.  ALLOW THE UNIT TO RUN FOR 15 MINUTES. Open the door and dash in 2 cups of WHITE vinegar. Shut the door and allow the unit to complete it’s cycle.

The reason for running it for 15 minutes is to get it through it’s pre-wash cycle as you’d rather have the vinegar in for the 1 to 1 1/2 hour main wash than the shorter pre-wash cycle. 15 minutes covers pre-wash times for all makes and models of dishwashers.

If you have food stains (especially from tomato based foods) on plastic bowls or dishes - this procedure may remove those stains if you put them in the unit while doing the vinegar wash.

In new homes the problem could be addressed at the early planning states by reinforcing the laundry room floor.   Because this adds to the construction costs, most builders and architects are reluctant to do this.

After the house is built if the bottom of the laundry room floor is accessible the space between the floor joists and directly below the washer can be shored using wood to make the area more rigid. If this isn’t possible a 4′x4′ cement board or thicker plywood can be placed under the washer to make it stable.

The easiest way for a consumer to address the issue is to make considerations when shopping for a new washing machine.  

If the laundry room floor’s rigidity is suspect there are top loading washing machines that now use the same amount or slightly more water than the efficient front loaders.  These new washers don’t have transmissions. They use direct drive motors that use magnetism to agitate and spin the tub.

This is not new technology.  Domestic manufacturers have “adapted” the direct drive into their units from foreign appliance manufacturers. This is good news for the consumer.  These washers have fewer than a dozen moving parts so there are less repairs. They are quieter because of the lack of a transmission, gearcase or belts.  This makes a world of difference on a 1st or 2nd floor laundry.

THE FAN ALSO PULLS IN DIRT, DUST AND ESPECIALLY PET HAIR THAT COVERS THE CONDENSER. 

Regular cleaning of the front won’t allow dust to migrate to the back where the fan pulls it.  If the condenser is a tiered style a refrigerator brush MUST be used to clean.  If an angle style the best way to clean is with a vacuum hose.  DON’T USE FORCE as the condenser has freon going through it and is sealed.  Read the owner’s manual for maintenance instructions.